|The Upper Wall & Cheeks|
Ultimately, when you compare crux moves of routes like Numbah Ten, Stern Farmer, Blue in the Face, and Narrow Arrow Overhang, you will find highly specific movement, that honestly, are not likely to be encountered anywhere else. But, that said, I think climbers learn lots about balance, friction limits, problem solving, bizarre flare chicanery, and learning how to go for it on terrain where natural gear or fall potential seem scary.
These things can be applied.
If you do well at Index, I think other granite areas will become more
transparent (the caveat being actual meat and potatoes crack climbing). While
there is a flow and cadence to the climbing, the crux moves are often
unrivaled puzzlers; and as a result, I’m never bored because individual routes
often have some unique & bizarre crux move. It is interesting to observe
the fact that over half of the pitches at Index are fully bolted sport routes.
But, you won’t often see the Little Si sport phene out here, presumably because it
is just too slabby, and certainly not because there are too few bolts.
|The Iron Horse Slot.|
|The Old Bus. RIP.|
In my giddiness, I’m torn between stoke to try old routes like Rise and Fall, Technicians, and Good Girls -- versus scouting for new routes, and examining abandoned projects, to which there are a significant number. Despite my psyche, I know it will take more than words to start ticking these climbs. 5.11, 5.12 –which is the hallmark grade for Index often takes me lots of work. Conditions, dirt, irrational fear, flying objects, runouts, humbled ego, reaches, and partner availability are all factors. I love that about this place.